Galapagos 17th to 21st

17^th

Today’s destination is Plaza Sur – a dry landing day with a huge sea lion colony, including pups. This island is supposed to have the Hybrid Iguana, but none were seen today. The island also has cactus trees, and they are quite large! One tree had fallen over due to having excessive amounts of rain, thus making the tree heavier than usual. A couple of iguanas were busy feeding on the leaves. It was interesting watching them rake at the leave with their claws in order to remove the thorns from the leaves before eating them. These animals seem so clumsy it is hard to figure how they have survived so long! From the shore we walked to the southern side of the island (only a hundred meters!) where we had excellent views of sea birds flying and nesting on the rocky cliffs. There were Nazca Boobies, Blue footed boobies, swallow tailed gulls with chicks, a brown pelican, terns, lava heron, red billed tropic birds and a sea lion. Apparently the top of the cliff is commonly used for injured sea lions to rest and recover in the sun. On the way back to the boat Sandy got the attention of a large sea lion, some vocal gesture was made by the sea lion to Sandy who got quite a fright. A few more iguanas and a cactus finch concluded the animal count for the morning. We had to persuade a mother sea lion and cub to get off the concrete jetty so we could board our zodiac which took some convincing by our guide!

From here we headed to Santa Fe. On the way Carlos saw us watching the Firgate birds following the boat, so he went and got some fish and started feeding them! Not sure if I agreed with this, however it gave some great photo opportunities! At Santa Fe we anchored in a small bay and found we had an hour before our next landing. A few of us thought we would take the time for a quick snorkel along the shore where there were some seals and birds. We also saw a turtle, some parrot fish frantically eating something on a lone rock, boobies, pelicans and sea lions. We also saw a floating “floatie” from one of the many ships also anchored around us, so promptly got out of the water in disgust. Unbelievable that raw effluent is discharged into the water when boats are anchored - disgusting!

A quick shower followed before heading to shore for our walk. When we got to the shore (different area to where we were snorkelling) it was packed with sea lions! They didn’t care at all we were there and people could lay down beside them, take photos etc. without them moving. On the island we walked a loop passing 10m high cactus trees , a few Santa Fe Iguanas, some lava lizards and Darwin finches. The walk was not overly interesting so we were eager to get back into the water for our 2^nd official snorkel.

More sealions playing in the water but the water is really murky and quite difficult to see a few metres in front of you. Spotted a sea snake that had brown and white stripes really quite pretty. Got a bit behind with a few others while looking at the fish and lost our guides in a mob of snorkellers in front of us. Getting a bit tired of guides just motoring ahead its suppose to be relaxing and scenic not how quick we can get around the reef. Anyway spotted two turtles whilst waiting for the zodiac to pick us up – well first find us, had a few other zodiac drivers thinking we were on their boats. Once on board we motored to Puerto Ayora, one of the main towns on the island. Had dinner on board before venturing out on the town with Jane. We both tried to get on the internet but oh my gosh it was so ssssslow….. and took forever to upload the homepage so we gave up, finally tried a different place and got to read the email but takes too long to respond will have to do it on the mainland. Decided to be cheap and bought some vodka, coke and chocolates and headed back to the boat on a water taxi for a feast. Lots of talking and laughing on board with a couple others that had headed back early from town before going to bed.

18^th

Early breakfast and then we headed off to the Charles Darwin Research Centre to see the large tortoises and santa fe iguanas. There is a tortoise called “Lonesome George” that is the last tortoise of his species. He is from the island of Isla Pinta and as yet has not mated although they are trying to find a match and he has two females with him. Not much hope as he is already 95 years old, perhaps he needs some Viagra! There were originally 16 types of tortoises in the Galapagos but now only 11 remain, this was due to the number of fisherman eating them and selling the oil. Not the most fascinating place but seems to be doing good work breeding tortoises and then setting them free once they are old enough to survive on their own. After the Research Centre it was time to say goodbye to half our group – quite sad really had a lot of fun. We walked into town and were going to go to Tortuga bay but it was soo hot that we just stopped in a café and had a coke. Then Sandy decided to send postcards which turned into a mission, finding postcards is not hard but trying to find the stamps sent us up and down the street a few times. Finally found some and a pen and sat down to write them before posting one home and one to Sandy’s gran.

A new group arrived at lunch and we departed to the lava tunnels on the island. They are huge tunnels about 5m wide at the widest point and 10m at the highest. Some of the tunnel has caved in but you can still walk a fair distance. From here we departed to visit the tortoise farm where you can walk in amongst the tortoises. Chris climbed into an old shell of one of the tortoises – not the easiest to do and quite funny to watch. Chris and Lars decided to have a game of table tennis to pass the time before we departed back to the boat – they came back sweating so must have been a hard game J Back on board and dinner time and lots of chatting with our new group before heading to bed. Left Puerto Ayora in the middle of the night for Floreana Island.

19^th

After breakfast we hopped in the zodiacs to go to Baronesa Hill. Not the most fascinating island and not much around other than mosquitoes! Didn’t see any wildlife so a bit disappointing. On the way back we saw a turtle swimming close to our zodiac and a lot of blue booby’s bombing the water for fish. We motored 20 minutes to Champion point for our snorkel. In the water and we saw 6 turtles! One even came right up to Chris to say hi! Lots of sealions swimming with us and just about try to kiss you at times. Pufferfish and millions of small brown jellyfish to swim through – not that pleasant and I was very close to getting out of the water a few times. Snorkel wasn’t that long as a few of the others had had enough. Back to the boat for lunch while we motored to Punta Cormorant. Went for a walk at about 2pm to the lagoon – lots of mozzies and rain! Got completely drenched just walking to the lagoon. However it was slightly worth it to see about 30 flamingoes that were this beautiful pink colour. A bit of a walk to the other side to a beach where there are stingrays that sleep in the shallows so not the best place to swim, also lots of crabs. Back to the boat and away from the mozzies for our snorkel. Got to snorkel the famous devils crown. This is absolutely amazing however the water temperature goes from lovely to frigid in mere metres. Lots of geothermal activity around this area. Loads of fish around but the best was the school of spotted eagle rays that swam right past us – so majestic. Also saw about 13 white tipped sharks all sitting in the same spot with the biggest about 2m long and the smallest 40cm, two turtles, sealions but no hammerheads L Chris and I decided to swim into the devils crown but didn’t get far before quickly escaping the icy waters. Thought we would have spent longer here as there was so much life but for some reason got called in early – a bit disappointing. On the way back to the boat Chris spotted 2 golden rays – not fair I didn’t see them L Back on board and there are still lots of mozzies so we are going to leave to Espanola after dinner. Briefing and a long winded storytime before dinner and a chat. Bedtime whilst motoring – not nice as there is lots of movement and the motor is noisy in the boat even though the waves are small.

20^th

Woke up to clear skies and a clear sea could even see the sealions on the beach from the boat. After breakfast on the zodiac to the Bahia Gardner beach. The beach is littered with sealions and their pups are all posing for their photos. After lots of photos and sealion time we decided to go for a snorkel off the beach to a rock in the middle of the beach. It was suppose to be full of sealife but only saw a few fish, one white tipped shark, that is apparently always in the same spot and nicknamed Juan, and a small stingray trying to escape a horde of kids snorkelling – not that great a snorkelling spot and rather barren. So decided to go back to the beach to swim with the sealions which are always interesting to watch. Took the zodiac back to the boat before motoring on to our next stop. Lunch and then off to shore. It’s a dry landing met with a number of colourful marine iguanas. Also a couple of nazca booby babies that were being over protective of the path we were suppose to take, a bit of a diversion and on to the beach past a number of sealions and iguanas, which were also not in a hurry to let us pass. The marine iguanas on this island have red and green marking on their backs unlike the others we have seen so far. We walked over to the cliff where nazca boobys and swallowtail gulls are nesting. There are also a number of hooded mockingbirds and Galapagos doves around. Further along the cliff is a blowhole. The blowhole shoots spray up to 25m in the air and got pretty close to it while we were there. More Nazca booby’s and even one feeding its chick on the path. On towards another cliff where we sat watching the booby’s and swallowtail gulls flying around. On way back to beach, Chris not feeling well so speeded up the walking while Sandy dawdled behind. Also had another women not feeling well due to heatstroke – a bit disgusted that our guide didn’t care or wait for her! It is really hot today too. Saw a Galapagos hawk but it was a long way away and was still sitting in its nest. Chris managed to see a snake on the way back and we both had some more trouble with passing some possessive sealions on the way back to the zodiac. They really didn’t want us on their concrete path. Back to the boat and Chris is really ill and turning himself inside out. I went for a quick swim to cool down before checking on him and then going down for our briefing and dinner. We started motoring towards turtle cove bay which didn’t help matters as it was a rocky ride – so not much sleep for Chris at all!

21^st

Woke up early and straight onto the zodiac to turtle cove. Chris still not right so stayed on board. I saw lots of baby Galapagos sharks feeding, turtles and stingrays. Turtle cove is an estuary so also had some more fun with mozzies – they seem to really love me. Back on board for breakfast before motoring to the port where we disembark. Off the boat and on land again, but still got the swaying motion. To the airport and got our tourist stamp from the Galapagos. Our flight has been delayed so we decided to go for a drink in the airport café before boarding our flight to Quito. Arrived in Quito and it is raining- we even got hail in the afternoon. Left Chris to sleep a bit while I got the washing done and checked the internet. Went back to check on him but he is still tired and hasn’t eaten. So I went out with the group for dinner, had a really nice ceviche con concho (marinated fish in lemon with oysters) and a chicken dish which was huge! Also tried a sangria. Back to hotel for bedtime – Chris has managed to eat – however not much and is still very tired.